Managing Ramadan

Where to eat during Ramadan Fasting

Ramadan is the biggest event in Morocco, a month of fasting, of fun foods, of night time buzz. People get together with families and friends, not unlike Christmas and Thanksgiving.

And just like those events, they can be a challenge for a non-local who doesn’t have access to the homes where everything takes place.

What is Ramadan?

Ramadan is a spiritual time of abstinence, a bit like Lent in the Christian calendar. Muslims fast for the daylight hours, no food, no drinks – not even water, unless a woman is pregnant or menstruating, someone is sick, or they are travelling.

It is illegal for an adult Moroccan to eat in public during Ramadan. A growing number of Moroccans don’t choose to fast, especially younger people, but most end up fasting because of this law in public, and peer pressure at home.

Most will also abstain from smoking, sex, and alcohol for the month, at least for the daylight hours. While drinking is haram (forbidden) in Islam, there are still those who drink.

The days are much quieter. especially during f’tour, or breakfast. Night time by contrast is ful of buzz, with the streets often busy until dawn, cafes and restaurants staying open later than usual.

Unlike Christmas and Thanksgiving, Ramadan doesn’t have a fixed date. It moves forwards each year by about 10 days based on the cycle of the moon. In 2024, Ramadan started on the eve of the 10th or 11th of March, depending on the country.

What Does Ramadan Mean for Visitors?

Did you arrive in Tangier without realising it was Ramadan?

The biggest challenge is that restaurants and cafés are closed during the day. Night clubs, bars and bottle shops are closed, the clocks and business hours change, and there is a physical impact from fasting.

The Clock

Morocco is a little unusual when it comes to the changes for summertime. While most countries change at the beginning and end of summer, and some simply never change, Morocco has changed permanently.

I was told that this was to try to rectify the fact that Moroccans don’t like to get up early (actually, a particular trait of northerners and Tangier, of Tanjawiz - not so much in the rest of Morocco), so the clocks were never set back.

Of course, Moroccans, like everyone, adapted and simply get up an hour later by the clock, so nothing changed. It is also entirely possible that this is a joke. However, Morocco is on permanent summertime.

Except during Ramadan.

Irrespective of the season, clocks are turned back to normal time starting the weekend before Ramadan. Your phone should automatically change when this happens. However, if you have a flight or an appointment, it is worth double checking.

Business Hours

Most places will open later than usual, and have shorter hours to make the day easier to get through for those who still have to be out. Tours are likely to function as normal for tourists, but double check this.

Cafes, Restaurants, Food and Eating

The biggest issue for the visitor is finding somewhere to eat during the day. As a visitor you can of course choose to join in the experience and fast during the day. However, if you don’t wish to fast, it is important to be aware of where you can get something to eat. Outside the old medina and the tourist hotels there are very few options.

Here are your options in Tangier. There is a quick guide to key landmarks at the bottom of the article.

Medina Cafés

If you are staying near the medina or visiting it, this will be the easiest option.

Gran Cafe Central in Petit Socco in the medina

Gran Café Central and Café Tingis in Petit Socco

The two biggest cafes in Petit Socco are Café Central, and Café Tingis. Be mindful that with so many cafés closed, they tend to be very crowded, so take this into account with your timing in case you need to wait for a table.

Cafe Tingis, right next to Cafe Central

There are a few other cafés. They let you know that food is on offer by displaying a tagine on one of the front tables.

If you are Arabic or even just have an Arabic name (I’ve known people to have trouble on a British passport because of their name or their look), most cafés will refuse to serve you. However, Café Tingis will serve everybody, and another café on the other side of Café Central will also serve everybody.

Boulevard towards La Grande Poste

There are some cafés which I know of which are likely to be open outside the medina during Ramadan because they are popular with the local foreign community. Be aware that it’s never fixed and can change year by year. Your best source of information is to join the facebook page Tangier Expats and ask on there.

From Cafe de Paris, walk along the Boulevard past the canons. Before the bend in the street where Hotel Rembrandt is, you will pass the Metropole Cafe on your left, which is usually open through Ramadan.

Continue past Hotel Rembrandt on the Boulevard, and head down towards La Grande Poste. In that next block, on your left there is a plaza, the open area marked by the bright orange of the Marjane supermarket (which you can find downstairs) - Acima Plaza.

Walk through this plaza towards the sea. A restaurant previously called Concierto, now a Spanish restaurant called Casa Agustin, is open in the day.

Back out on the Boulevard and right next to Acima Plaza is the Boulevard Comedia. (It has two shops.) Only the Boulevard one is open this year. A little further down on the corner, Downtown has been open many years, but not this year.  

However, turn right at Downtown and cross the Boulevard. On that street you will find Tendy’s and Omeza on this street. Both are daytime open this year.

Casa Agustin

A new restaurant in Acima Plaza above Marjane - open in the daytime.

Alma Kitchen and Coffee which can be found on google maps is also likely to be open. Continue down the Boulevard, past La Grande Poste to the UN square, or Place des Nations in French. It is one of the cafes which front onto the square around to the left.

You should find a table to sit inside and out of public view.

Restaurants

There are also a few restaurants open through the day through Ramadan. They are typically ones which cater to the foreigners in Tangier.

The Syrian: In the medina itself, one which is always at the top of my list of recommendations is Abou Tayssir, The Syrian. It’s just a small shop in Rue d’Italie across from Cine Alcazar. But the food is always excellent, and well-priced.

The Syrian, across from Cine Alcazar

Anji:- Another favourite of mine in Tangier – quite a decent Chinese restaurant. I’ve even had a Chinese friend who has sworn off Chinese restaurants when away from home, but is willing to eat there. Some nights (I think Thursdays) every table is full from the Chinese living in Tangier.

They are open during the day during Ramadan. What’s more, they also serve alcohol.

It is down on the Corniche opposite the Miramar Hotel. You can also find it from the Boulevard just below UN Square. It’s on the same street as Ibn Battouta mall – all easy to find on google maps.

Veiw from Anji, upstairs looking over the bay

Indian Spice:- A fairly new and very good Indian restaurant. The lovely owners have some sister restaurants in Spain around the Marbella area. Go to Roxie Cafe (from google maps - its in the area behind MacDonalds towards Hotel Chellah). It’s a few shops down the street on Roxie’s left.

La Cocina:- This one is open through the day, and also sells alcohol as a bar through Ramadan. It is a little hard to find. The best way is to go to the bottom of the medina and go to your right along the Corniche. Find Café California on google maps, and keep going. It’s between Café California and the roundabout. Google maps shows Restaurante Diblu.

Looking out from near La Cocina

Hatanaka’s Japanese:- At the top of the medina on the way to the Kasbah you’ll go past Hatanaka’s corner, opposite the jail museum. The ramen is a definite good choice, but also takoyaki octopus balls, and some other Japanese dishes. Open form middaty to 7pm - a perfect stop for lunch or dinner.

Casa d’Italia:- This is a rather nice Italian restaurant including pasta and pizza, very popular with local expats, and serves alcohol. It’s inside an enclosure and a bit tricky to find, but it is on google maps and not far from the medina and Iberia roundabout.

Ba Sidi:- This shiny and fairly new shop has some classics like tagines, open during the day and found on Rue d’Italie on the way to Abou Tayssir Syrian.

Casa d’Espana:- If you stand on the Boulevard facing Hotel Rembrandt, look to your left down the street which runs behind the Boulevard. There is a huge sign above its door showing the Spanish flag. They should serve both food and alcohol, and be open during the day.

MacDonalds, Burger King, KFC:- These fast food joints are generally open through the day, especially for kids to eat. There is a MacDonalds near Hotel Rembrandt, and another on the beach near the train station.

Villa Mokhtar is open this year, a nice restaurant including a rooftop bar with sea views. It is at the top of Rue d’Italie near the Kasbah gate. Just before you get to the ‘T’ at the top of the hill, there’s a little street which runs left - next to the pharmacy with the green door and opposite the little carpark. Villa Mokhtar is at the end of this little lane.

Villa Mabrouk is a little further up the hill may also be open. It used to be the home of Yves Saint Laurent, and was visited by notables such as Mick Jagger.

Another is Mesana, a Basque Spanish restaurant on the beach/Corniche just past the train station. It’s not open during the day, but it does serve alcohol making it a good evening option if you want somewhere to relax over good food and something to drink. Its Ramadan hours are 7pm to 1am.

Some Ramadan Fun – Try Out a Ramadan Breakfast, F’tour

Café F’tour

The cafés on the Boulevard all advertise on their windows that they have Ramadan breakfast or f’tour/Iftar. Keep an eye out, since they aren’t the only ones. There are also local places which won’t advertise – you can go there as well. Just be there a bit before dusk to sample a Moroccan style f’tour.

Picnic F’tour

Another fun option is to take your food to a café and eat picnic style. One nice spot is Hanafta, up near Café Hafa. If you walk up Rue d’Italie to the Kasbah, and keep on going up the hill, you will come to a green café area on your left, the Phoenician tombs overlooking the sea on your right (Hafa is just a half block further on your right)

The waiters set up the cafés before dusk, but service won’t start until they have had their f’tour. You can sit at the cafés to eat, as long as you buy a drink when they open. You can buy food at the food shops in the medina which will start serving before dark. Most cafés in Morocco have no problem if you eat food from elsewhere, as long as you buy a drink from them.

My personal recommendation is Café Colon on Rue d’Italie opposite Cine Alcazar, and next to Abou Tayssir Syrian.

Rue d’Italie from Cafe Colon at Ramadan rush hour, just before f’tour

This is because café Colon is on a narrow street. It is quite worth the watch as it transforms from frenetic to empty in the space of about 15 minutes. So get there a good half hour before sunset (you can check the time on your phone), and watch the transformation.

Rue d’Italie from Cafe Colon 15 minutes later, at the prayer call signalling f’tour

You may also be able to order food from Abou Tayssir next door, probably a healthier option than the chicken places in the medina. Alternatively, the bakeries have a range of choices, as well as home cooked options like breewat you can buy on the street - the triangular shaped pastries.

Alcohol

Living there if you like to drink and don’t wish to abstain, my first suggestion is to stock up before Ramadan. Be aware that bottle shops close a few days before Ramadan starts – make sure to get in early.

During Ramadan all night clubs and most bottle shops will be closed from 3 days before until 3 days after, following Eid. The whole city of Fes was dry last year, so take supplies if you’re heading that way and want something to drink.

In Tangier, there are 2 or 3 open. The one which is easy to find and always open is Casa Pepe, on the little street between Hotel Rembrandt and MacDonalds. It will close at about 6pm, sometimes before. Because of course he also wants to be home in time for f’tour.

In Ramadan you will need to show them your passport or ID.

Between Hotel Rembrandt and MacDonalds, open during Ramadan from about 10am to 5:30pm

Night Clubs

The bars and night clubs close a few days before Ramadan – check for the exact day. To go out for a drink there is only the tourist hotels such as Hotel Rembrandt on the Boulevard and the Corniche,  and La Cocina at the bottom of the medina.

Atmosphere and Cautions

Watch the streets go from crazy to empty just before sunset - Don’t even expect to find a taxi. Enjoy the calm of the streets in the early evening. Then after an hour or two, the buzz starts. Everyone comes out, now happy from eating and ready to socialise with friends and family. The city is open most of the night. Cafés and food places open up again. Especially on the Boulevard and Corniche and boardwalk next to the beach there will be people everywhere.

But be aware that the fasting does have an impact.

Government businesses may have shorter hours, but the office staff will still be working on a day of no food. People get very slow and lethargic by the end of the day. So be nice, and be patient if you have business or need something.

The streets get traffic jammed from late morning – with cafés closed, many end up driving around in their cars to fill the time.

Normally I would say the Moroccans are very aware of their surroundings when driving. When first in Tangier I soon noticed that what I perceived as near misses were always false alarms on my part.

However, after about 2pm during Ramadan, blood sugar levels are dropping low. This impacts on tempers and judgement. The number of near misses and small accidents goes up dramatically at this time, so be extra alert of your surroundings. The evenings can also have a bit of crazy – maybe a sugar rush following f’tour.

In Summary

Ramadan is a special spiritual time for Muslims, Morocco is no exception. If you are here, enjoy the night time buzz of the all-nighter, try a Ramadan breakfast and the special sweets, maybe even think about fasting for a day yourself.

Ramadan f’tour at Colon, a special deal from the Syrian next door that we arranged one year for a gathering of friends

 Special thanks to Leslie Luby for many of the updates for this year. Any further information welcome - please message me on fb or on Whatsapp.

If you are looking for some reading, Leslie runs runs the English book library in Tangier with a huge selection of reading.

Key Landmarks

Here are a few landmarks to get you oriented to Tangier and to help you find your way around.

Grand Socco, Cinema Rif, Souq Barra:-  Cinema Rif is a known landmark and on google maps. It’s on Grand Socco, the square with the fountain, and Souq Barra, the local markets. All three are known to everyone, including taxi drivers, to get you back to the medina. – Medina simply means city, and usually refers to the old walled city.

Cinema Rif with the Gran Socco fountain in front of it

Rue d’Italie and the Kasbah:-  With your back to Cinema Rif – a good café to chill (and make sure you check out the toilets!) – you will see across from the fountain 2 streets. One with an archway on the left, and one on the right of it.

The arched street is Rue d’Italie. It’s very steep, and takes you up to the Kasbah or castle at the top of the medina. At the T at the top of the hill, to your right is the Kasbah Gate which leads into the medina. If instead you keep on going up you will get to the famous Café Hafa and the Phoenecian tombs.

Gate or bab into Rue d’Italie

Petit Socco:-  The right of these 2 streets opposite Cinema Rif goes into the medina. Though there are streets and mazes off it, there’s just one main one. It splits at a little square which is Petit Socco with Café Centrale. The 2 branches will take you down to the bottom of the medina.

Café de Paris, the canons, and the Boulevard:-  From Grand Socco, instead of going down, go up along the street to the left of Cinema Rif. Keep going until you get to the next fountain. This is Place de France.

The beginning of the Boulevard - a good stop, but after f’tour. The inside reminds me of the movie Casablanca

On your right is the French consulate. On your left is the iconic Gran Café de Paris – another good landmark for the taxi – and next to it the canons with the lovely sea views of Spain. This is also the Boulevard, the main reference point.

Just past Cafe de Paris, this is where the henna women wait. At the end of the street is the Hotel Rembrandt, just out of sight

Hotel Rembrandt:-  If you keep going to your left along the Boulevard to the spot where the road bends, you will be at Hotel Rembrandt. This is another good landmark. If you keep on going along the Boulevard you will get to La Grande Poste – the main post office – and the UN Square, better known as Place des Nations, or its Arabic name. It goes on through the Tangier CBD and eventually down to the train station.

The Corniche:-  This is the one other main road in the centre – it runs parallel to the Boulevard but down next to the water, starting from the ferry terminal, and all the way along Tangier Bay, the beach and the boardwalk.

I have given most of my directions from one of these places.