Visas to Morocco

Visas to Morocco, and How they Really Work

9 Apr

Written By Zallee Pepper

Visas to Morocco

I have lived in Morocco for 3 years and loved it!!! I love that the rules are ambivalent. They are just a suggestion. Just like the way visas to Morocco work.

I love Morocco. I loved living in Tangier.

And I love that there’s always a way – that is so optimistic to me after struggling with the rules of the rich countries where it’s “damned if you do, damned if you don’t”.

Find out how it works, then make your own decisions. But this is how I’ve lived and worked in Morocco for 3 years – I even know someone who did it this way for 30 years!

Legitimate Visa to Morocco

First up, is that things are always changing. But in the end, Morocco wants the tourists and the foreigners.

The legitimate way is to apply for residency. This is cheap, and straightforward. But it is an annoying amount of paperwork. But it will give you some extras that a tourist visa doesn’t.

You can get a proper bank account (be mindful that the dirham is a closed currency, so transferring out isn’t possible via a bank account). You can buy a car. You can stay without worrying about border runs.

Of course you will need to prove adequate living funds from overseas, but for Morocco this isn’t huge.

The other Way Visas to Morocco Work

The other way, which is the way most people around me followed, is with a tourist visa. As long as you can enter Morocco with a tourist stamp at the border, this is an option. The rich countries are very tied up on visa legalities, and there isn’t one that I would try to push the rules.

But if you are moving to Morocco, it is good to understand that rules aren’t black and white in the same way as we understand them. Things work differently – as happens across many cultures.

This is how it works in Morocco.

Tourist Visa

The tourist visa gives you 90 days. Within those 90 days, you need to leave Morocco. I lived in Tangier, which is close to Europe. Many times I just went to Spain for lunch – that is enough.

From Tangier, you can catch the ferry to Tarifa, have a nice lunch, a beer in the sun or a sangria and tapas at my favourite pub at the top of the medina next to the gate – Bossa. Then hop on a ferry and be back in time for dinner.

The ferry takes about 40 minutes (maybe an hour or 2 with faffing). I have set out the complete how to in a blog on ferries from Spain to Morocco.

Your second quick option is a taxi ride to Ceuta in a grand taxi. (Also set out in that blog). The ride takes about an hour along the coast with views of Spain across the sea for most of the way, and is less than 10 euros each way. Again, back in time for dinner. If they ask at the border I say I was doing some shopping – my bag will always prove me right, filled up with cheeses, pork, and alcohol which is way cheaper than in Morocco.

There are also lots of cheap flights, especially to Spain. I’ve heard of 30 euros return from Tangier to Rome. Casablanca is the biggest international airport, and will have cheap tickets, especially if you book ahead. I’ve also been told that you can get cheap flights from Essaouira to Marseilles.

On return, they simply stamp your passport for another 90 days.

Overstays

Even if for some reason things go wrong and you overstay, for the first time or 2 especially, fixing an overstay is easy – as long as you do it the right way.

If you try to leave without fixing your visa overstay, be aware that all hell will break loose.

You will be made to get the paperwork fixed before you catch your flight, which can easily mean missing it. And on your return there will be a court attendance and a fine.

But there is such an easy solution. The first time or even 2 you are unlikely to get a fine, even the third time if you have a very good reason.

The how-to was information given to me at the wilaya – the police headquarters immigration office in Tangier.

By all means, check this up for yourself. But this is how it works, especially in Tangier. (My first overstay was almost 2 years. Since then I have maintained a 3 monthly trip routine).

About 3 days before you leave, go to the wilaya with:

·       Your ticket

·       Your passport

·       Your visa

·       Proof of where you’ve been staying and

·       5 Passport photos.

Get 5 copies of each – there is a copier shop right next to the wilaya in Tangier.

Most of the process is then waiting. They may even ask you to come back the next day, and you must make the application with a full 24 hours spare before your departure. But the paperwork itself takes about 20 minutes.

I went early to immigration to make sure, but the worst case is a bit of a wait while immigration makes a phone call confirming your extension. I waited just 10 minutes.

Drawbacks of the Border Run

The main drawback is that you must take a ‘holiday’ every 90 days. You also need to keep in mind that in Morocco, everything is fine until it isn’t. Most of the time everything is fine, but it is worth being aware that sometimes, as with everywhere, get someone on a bad day and they can make things a bit more difficult for you.

I have heard of people being told at Ceuta they have to wait 24 hours, but I have never experienced any problems at all. I just smile and say I had a good day of shopping and eating tapas. They haven’t even checked my bags for customs.

As always, take into account the consequences and decide what works for you. But in Tangier, this is how it works.

If you want a bank account, to buy a car, or find the idea of these 3 monthly trips tedious, get yourself residency – first one is one year, second is for 3 years, third and after is for 5 years.

If, like me the residency seems like too much paperwork and you’re happy taking a holiday every 3 months, then the tourist visa is easy, and nobody will check whether you are working, or stop you at the border.  

Over time I found I didn’t even have to keep track of my 3-month limit because I was starting to trip to Spain to meet friends and explore new parts more often than that.

Getting Around Morocco and Tangier - Insider Secrets

Getting Around Morocco and Tangier

Insider Secrets

I constantly see wrong information about getting around, and to and from Tangier, even from Moroccans (who don’t live in Tangier). Get the insider secrets – the local know-how.

There are three ways of getting around Morocco, and which is best depends on where you are (unless you have big budget constraints). $ fares are approximates in US dollars in 2024. Euros are about the same.

TRAINS – Heading North-South in Morocco

Going north-south from Tangier (Tanger Ville station) to Casablanca (Casa-Voyageurs station) there is the beautiful El Boraq bullet train service. This is linked into local train services (by that, I mean the timetable is designed for convenience) to Fes, Marrakech, and the airport.

Tangier to Casablanca is 2 hours, 250dhs (about $25) and runs every hour or 2. There’s a food car with some basic options which are reasonable.

To the airport there is a direct link. It takes about 20 minutes plus waiting time, and stops right at the terminal.

From Tangier to Fes takes 3h15. You change to a local train at Kenitra, 1 hour from Tangier. Usually this means nothing more than stepping across the platform and waiting 10 or 20 minutes – way easy. Just book a ticket to Fes (they will tell you about the change) normally 172 dhs. ($17). The line can go all the way to Melilla, the Spanish city on the coast (by that, I mean Spain). There are ferries from Melilla to Malaga.

You can also then get to the south to Erfoud and Merzouga by bus from both Fes (and Meknes – Fes would have more options) – a bit more than 100 dhs one way.

From Tangier to Marrakech takes 5h20, which seems to me good time for somewhere so far. The change is at Casablanca. You will need to change platforms. There are cafes etc for food – Casablanca station. The fare is just under 500dhs ($50).

Buying the Train Tickets

To buy tickets, easiest is at the train station itself. I usually just allow an hour before the time I wish to go. Online often doesn’t work – may be related to the currency of the card. The only likely problem is if it is a public holiday. If it is, I’d recommend booking a good week ahead. Otherwise, if the timing really matters, get your ticket a day ahead.

GRAND TAXIS – Heading East-West across the top of Morocco

East-West across the top of Morocco, the best way to get about is via grand taxi. They are like a mini bus service, with fixed routes and fixed fares. They are usually fawn or khaki coloured. You will see them all lined up in many spots around the city. The trick is knowing where to go to catch the one you want, but the share taxi drivers will usually be able to tell you.

They take 6 people, and go as soon as they fill up. Most of the time you won’t wait more than 10 or 20 minutes. If you are in a hurry, you can always pay for extra seats. For any distance, they are cheaper than the blue taxis. They run to the south to Boukhalef near the airport, near the new CTM station, to the market suburb of Casabarata… Just depends on where you want to go. Those ones are mostly 5-15 dirhams, depending on how far the trip is.

If you want to go to the beach such as Achakkar, to Hercules Cave, they are about 15 dhs. Go to the Mediterranean beaches to the East to the beaches and the fare will be about 20 dhs – all depending on how far you go.

To the south to Asilah beach and medina is a bit more.

Old CTM Bus Station:

This stop is about 5 minutes taxi behind the train station and right on the train line, across the road from the old CTM bus station. The new CTM station is in the south near the airport. It also has grand taxis to these places, but it’s a long way from the medina. The fares will also be different.

You might get a taxi from here to get to:

Chefchaouen: Taxi stop is across from the old CTM bus station, a short blue share taxi ride behind the train station. (The new CTM bus station is down near the airport. They also have grand taxis to Chefchaouen, but it will cost a lot in blue taxi to get there).

Chefchaouen is just over 2 hours and doable in a day trip if you start early. The fare is 70dhs ($7)

Tetouan: A smaller city than Tangier, with some lovely beaches nearby, such as M’diq – about 20 minutes by another grand taxi. About an hour, the fare is about half for Chefchaouen.

Fnediq/Ceuta: Ceuta is another Spanish city, Fnediq is the one on the Moroccan side. Your main interest for this one may be for a border run. Just 70dhs ($7) from Tangier, border run ferries Algeciras. I always enjoy some sangria, beers in the sun, and tapas as well as shopping for cheese, preserved pork, and alcohol which is much cheaper than in Morocco. You can also get ferries to Spain, to Barcelona and Sete in France.

Tangier Med: is the ferry terminal a good 40 minutes from Tangier and on the way to Ceuta. Ferries go from there to Algeciras, which is right next to Gibraltar. Note though, that the Tangier ferry which goes to Tarifa has a free bus included in the fare which will take you the 20 minutes to Algeciras ferry terminal.

Morocco - The South

Unfortunately, in the south your options seem to be buses. I believe it is about 4 hours from Marrakech to Essaouira or Agadir.

And of course, there are flights across Morocco. If you want to go to Agadir from Tangier, your best way is probably by plane. And don’t forget – Dakhla. Have yourself a different experience by visiting this desert seaside holiday town.  

Ferry from Spain to Tangier

How do I get to Morocco from Spain by ferry?

Everything you need to know:

The Ferries

There are 3 ferry options to Tangier. 

To Morocco, it’s also possible to catch a ferry to Ceuta which is still Spain, and walk across the border there and use a grand taxi to Tangier which takes about an hour. Or you can catch a ferry to Melilla which is across from Nador and closer to Fes, by train.

Way 1: From Barcelona, if you’re cruising for time, there is a ferry to Tangier Med. It takes about 3 days.

When I did the trip (in reverse) I took the bus from Tangier. I bought the bus ticket at the Tangier port ticket shop, from Tangier to Barcelona. 

They taxied us from the Tangier port to Tangier Med, we took ouselves through customs etc, got the ferry to Algeçiras, then caught the coach to Barcelona which left me a long way from the port and city centre there. This was over 4 years ago and took about 20 hours in total. The coach seating space was very! small. But it was cheap - the cheapest option.

Way 2: If you get yourself to Algeçiras (I prefer blabla car over bus, but both are options, and if you have a lot of luggage the bus might be a better option), there are 2 ways.

The ferry which departs from Algeçiras is a little cheaper than the Tarifa ferry, but it goes to Tangier Med, leaving you to work out how to get to Tangier city (Tangier Ville), which is close to an hour away. There are grand taxis which are reasonable, but thats a bit to work out when first landing in a new country, especially if a bit tired and luggage laden. 

Way 3: The other way is from Tarifa, which puts you at the foot of the medina. If you buy your ticket at Algeçiras, it includes a free bus ride to Tarifa - a very pretty journey with some lovely views of Morocco across the water. The bus is designed to meet the ferry both ways, and takes you to the port.

Of course, you can go to Tarifa directly and buy your ticket there, especially if you're coming from elsewhere in Spain

Carts for luggage

The buses stop just to the right of the main gate, where you can find carts if you have a lot of luggage.

Tickets

Its easy to buy the tickets inside the terminal. Off season there's no need to book. Just arrive about an hour before the departure time. They run every couple of hours for most of the day.

Tickets are €40-44 depending on the exchange rate. They are valid for one year, and your booking date can be changed at any time, even after your booking if you missed it!

Return tickets give you a nice discount - I think of €10.

Passport Control

Passport control into Morocco is done on the ferry itself. Most people rush to line up for it, but I prefer to find a seat first and sit. I've noticed that the queue gets short after a bit. The actual trip is just 40 minutes, but departure time seems to be at the whim of the ferry people. It's a 2 hour window, because that ferry is scheduled to go back to Tarifa 2 hours after its Tarifa departure time.

Alcohol

The official limit for alcohol in coming into Morocco is 1 litre, but the rules are very flexible here. I've brought in as many as 6 bottles through Tangier and Ceuta (total price of spirits is about the same as one fancy brand in Morocco), and nobody cared. I wouldn’t try this at an airport though. 

Money

Dirhams are a closed currency and not supposed to be taken out or available outside Morocco. I have occasionally heard of someone getting some before arrival, but it's really not necessary, and a good chance you won't be able to. At the terminal in Tangier you will walk past some ATMs on your way to the door. Just use your card and withdraw some dirhams that way.

Morocco is one of the most cash-based countries in the world. Mobile apps are unlikely to be available for payment in most places, and only some places accept cards, generally the fancier tourist places. 

But that shouldn’t be a problem. Cash machines are everywhere. You can withdraw up to 2000 dhs in one go, some may let you take more. The cheapest is CdM - Credit du Maroc with the blue sign, which only charges 22dhs instead of 35 dirhams. 

You can also bring cash - euros are the beat, followed by usd, then GBP. 

There are also plenty of exchange bureaus around the medinas, and to be found elsewhere. Natually, the further you are from Touristy spots, the fewer there are. Like with everything, just ask at 2 or 3 first and you'll soon learn what rate/price is good.

There are also lots if CashPlus, Moneygram, and Western Unions around

For conversion, use ‘mad’. ie, put into google search "2000mad usd", etc. Currently €1 or $1 usd is around 10 dirhams.

Make sure to keep some receipts in case you need to change back when you leave. Morocco has a closed currency which means the dirhams are not supposed to leave, and as a result will be extremely difficult to sell outside Morocco. No one wants dirhams - not even thw Moroccans lol

Where to Stay

Now, where are you going to stay?

Look up Tangier. Most people want to be close to things. The yellow bit at the top of google maps. This is roughly where you want, including the non-yellow bits to the north of it. The green wiggly bit is the medina. If you want to be away from everything, you might like to try Asilah south of Tangier, beach and beautiful. But most people want to be near the medina where everything is.

I usually look up booking.com and explore the options there. Pick any one, then check it on the map. I then choose from map location and price, finding it the easiest way to narrow down what I want.

In and around the medina you can find lots of places with a great variety of types of options – everything from dormitories in hostels to the lovely boutique hotels. Many of them have rooftops and sea views – Tangier is blessedly hilly, so many places have views of Spain and the Mediterranean. Check my blog on where to stay for more detail.

Taxis and Transport

Once you’re through the gates of the ferry terminal, how do you get to your accommodation?

If you have little luggage and are up for a walk, you are at the base of the medina. Most places are in 10-15 minutes walking distance, unless you have booked down near the train station or Malabata along the far end of the beach, or somewhere further out from the medina.

If you need a taxi: From the port gates they generally want to charge more. If you have a lot of luggage you will need to take this option. If you want to save money, walk a little along the big road (called the Corniche), to your left from the gates.

Taxis aren’t expensive. The blue share taxis are likely to cost around 10 dhs give or take, half as much again if it’s after 9pm. Minimum fare in the daytime is 5dhs, at night is 7.50 dhs. Just make sure they put on the meter for you. Most of the medina is accessible either via Souq Barra (the markets at Grand Socco/Cinema Rif), or the Kasbah, depending on which end you are staying. 

Most taxi drivers are decent. Round the fare up to the nearest dihram. And be mindful that the roads in the area are mostly one-way streets – more likely to seem like a detour and a roundabout trip when you’re leaving than entering the area. But a taxi from the kasbah can seem quite circuitous.

The big pale yellow Mercedes sedans from the 80s are normal taxis and up to 4 times as expensive. With them, make sure you ask and negotiate the price first. 

There are also grand taxis, like mini bus services, but probably not your method of transport from the ferry to your room.

Once you are settled into your room, read my other blogs on where to eat and where to go out at night.

Enjoy Tangier.