10 Things to do in Tangier –The Medina
Tangier is often bypassed by tourists, a ferry stop at most as they rush past to Marrakech and Fes. To be honest, I’m not even sure if I’d heard of Tangier before I went there. But I will excuse me for that – Australia is so far away.
Casablanca has a name only because of the movie – which wasn’t even filmed there (all on set in Hollywood). And Marrakech – just one of those heard of places to visit, end of the Sahara, resting and trading station and camel mecca.
But if you find yourself passing through Tangier, stop for a little. Everyone I have talked to wishes they had stayed longer.
It has as much colourful history as Marrakech. Marrakech might be the gateway to the desert. Tangier is the gateway to Europe. It was an International Zone for three decades (1923-1956) administered by up to 7 nations at one point. It attracted the frustrated and rebellious from conservative Europe, including the likes of Yves Saint Laurent and Jack Kerouac – a habit that continues even today with movie stars and the likes of Mick Jagger.
Dawn view of Spain from Tangier
What is a medina?
Medina simply means city centre, but it is usually used to refer to the old town, and typical all around the Mediterranean as well as in the Arabic countries. Fes medina is the biggest medina in the world, and the largest un-motorised city centre.
A medina is typically full of a narrow maze of streets designed that way to confuse the enemy – and tourists, with few distinctive features to distinguish what part of town you are in. There aren’t even windows to look into so an enemy can’t get clued into where they are within the walls.
So, what is there to do in Tangier in and around the medina?
1 Breakfast and the Corniche
If you haven’t had breakfast supplied by your accommodation, head down to the Corniche. This is the big road at the bottom of the medina that runs from the ferry terminal along the beach to Malabata. There are several cafes (around Café California) which have cheap breakfasts in a nice location on the square. Watch the seagulls around the fountain while you eat.
If you want a fancy treat, there are many options including the Continental Hotel overlooking the ferry port, or the El-Minzah which also has a great view, between Cinema Rif and Gran Café du Paris. Its walls are covered in photos of the rich and famous who have already eaten breakfast there.
2 Get lost in the Tangier Medina
Get lost. This is the best way to explore the medina. Wander around the maze of shops and alleyways. You can shop for ceramics, cloth, silver, rugs, jewellery, antiques, traditional tagine pots, spices, or argan oil. There is endless colour and surprising corners, shops run by friendly local sometimes ofereing tea and a chat. My favourites are the bowls and bright cloth.
The locals are friendly. They will say hello and ask where you are from – just plain old curiosity. Of course they are hoping to sell you something, but they are just as happy to say hello and chat. The rug shops will often offer a friendly glass of tea with no obligations.
But don’t just hang around the shops. Many people live in the medina. If you explore beyond the main tourist-oriented streets you can discover where the locals buy their meat, fish and vegetables, or get their clothes fixed. When you’re done, there’s always someone friendly to point you back to the Kasbah or Petit Socco and Grand Café Centrale or Cinema Rif.
3 The American Legation
For an insider view of what’s behind those alleyway walls with no windows, head to the American Legation near the Spanish Steps. This is now a museum, but it was the first American embassy ever. Morocco was the first nation to recognize the newly independent USA in 1777.
The Legation has interesting exhibits on Tangier history, and historical figures, especially including Paul Bowles who was an American writer and musician and who was the first person to start recording Morocco’s Gnaoua music. You can also get a peek into what a grand home might be like behind those blank medina walls.
4 Bab Kasbah, the Sea Gate and Interzone
Head up to the top of the medina to Bab Kasbah – the Kasbah Gate. Kasbah is the word for castle. Follow the wall around from the gate past some designer boutiques and Morocco Club. Follow the wall around to the next gate – Bab Bhar or the Sea Gate. This is on the square in front of the Kasbah Museum.
Check out the view from Bab Bhar – all across the sea to Spain. Salon Blu is just one of the spots where you can stop for a drink and a view and something to eat. The Kasbah Museum has interesting Tangier history. Right next to is a music shop. That is to say, you can sit there and are likely to have a show of local music.
Nearby you can also visit Interzone which is part shop and part museum, and has a great collection of movies and writing connections with Tangier. Believe me, there are a lot – without even exploring the local ones.
5 Café Hafa and the Phoenician Tombs
Another iconic spot in Tangier is Café Hafa, famous for its exceptional view across to Spain. You can sit there over a mint tea to while away some time. Watch the ferries, or catch a Hafa sunset.
Just before you get to Hafa, there is a road with some ancient columns on your right, an information board at the entrance. Besides another excellent view of Spain and the Mediterranean, and across Tangier Bay, there are some graves carved into the top of the cliffs. These are some of the Phoenician tombs scattered around the area. Definitely a grand view for a burial!
Across from Hafa and the tombs, there is a nice green park full of cafés – Hanafta. I have a spot at the end of the first café where I can see the sea and Spain across the top of the Phoenician tombs, as well as taking in the park and plenty of Moroccan local life with the variety of people who prefer this park for a tea and snack.
If you are interested, walk to the far end of this park. Here you can see the imperial palace where I believe the king and royal family stays when in town.
6 Chilling in a Café
Walk back down the steep street that runs alongside the outside of the medina wall. This is Rue d’Italie. One of the best pastimes is to line up in front of a café front wall, sip a coffee or mint tea (fresh mint), and to “meditate” as you watch life passing by on the street.
Café Colon is a meeting point of many of the famous and infamous in Tangier over time, opposite Cine Alcazar. Through the gateway at the end and across the fountain there is also Cinema Rif – a nice spot for the same purposes. Don’t worry that the cafés seem dominated by men. There is no taboo. Women just gather to gossip in different places.
7 Souq Barra and Markets
On your way up to Cinema Rif, through a doorway to the left off the square with the fountain, you can explore the food markets where the locals shop. Check out the spices and the varieties of breads. I have counted more than 20 varieties of marinated olives in one of the tiny shops. Taste them and buy some, or maybe some pickles. And don’t forget my favourite – if you can handle spice. Harissa. There is both red harissa, and green harissa. Every shop has their own recipe.
Walk through the souq down past the ladies from the mountains with their red and white striped ‘skirts’ selling jben (yoghurt buttermilk) and Moroccan cheese wrapped in leaves (like ricotta), the small shops, bread varieties and the meat. Can you identify all of the body parts? I’ve tried all of them, although I don’t know what some of them are for! If you go all the way you will find the fish market at the very end.
Can you also find the very, very local eatery tucked around the corner behind all this? Don’t be deceived by their looks – their food is good. Get yourself a very Moroccan adenture!
Out on the square again, behind the mosque on the other side of the fountain, (and many other spots) there are the other kind of markets that the locals use, not the tourists. You can find tagine pots and second-hand goods, and feel the atmosphere of Tangier.
8 Gran Café de Paris and the Canons over Spain
If you go on up from the fountain square past Cinema Rif you will reach another fountain. This is Place du France. On the right-hand corner is the French embassy, but on your left is Gran Café du Paris, another haunt for local characters and a great place for coffee or tea, and to watch the world go by. It reminds me of the atmosphere of the movie Casablanca. But the Bourne Ultimatum (the third of these Matt Damon movies) had several scenes set in and around here.
If you follow it around the corner, you come to the canons, Sur Ma’agasin. A plaque has been put there by the government explaining it as a place to relax, but that’s not quite right. The real meaning of Sur Ma’agasin is “The Lazy Wall”! It is one of my favourite spots in Tangier because I love the view of Spain from here. You might not be as excited by all this as me, but I’m from Australia, where everywhere you can see or go is somewhere else in Australia!
9 Go Swimming
Not to overlook Tangier’s locations, you can always go swimming in the bay. The further up you walk the nicer the beaches, but it is quite reasonable to swim in Tangier Bay, even in summer – just 10 minutes’ walk from the bottom of the medina. The winter gets a bit chilly from the Atlantic current sweeping in, but some years I have swum as late as in October. If you come from Alaska or Moscow, I’m sure even later would be no issue.
10 Sunset at Chiringuito
Tangier has so many classic sunset spots, just one of which is Café Hafa. But if you’re wanting something a little classier, there is a restaurant-bar in the Marina which has lovely views across the boats and a sun setting over the medina. This is Chiringuito. The food here is also good. It is out along the walkway from the start of the beach. There are several cafes and restaurants, and even Club 555 right down at the end. But go to Chiringuito.
Sit yourself at one of the tables with a view out through the floor to ceiling windows and sip a wine, a beer, or a cocktail, and maybe some of their food, to a view of the sun setting over the medina and its tumble of white buildings.
