Managing Ramadan in Tangier in 2026

Ramadan Kareem

So you’ve arrived in Tangier in the middle of Ramadan. How do you manage?

It is not the best time to visit, since everything is go-slow, shorter hours, and eating during the day isn’t easy. But sometimes in spite of the best laid plans you may find yourself in Morocco during Ramadan. And of course, there are those who live in Tangier.

Restaurants and cafés are closed during daylight hours, night clubs and bars are closed for the whole month, and you have shorter hours and a sluggish population? I have so often found hungry tourists wandering around unable to find a place to eat. It’s like Christmas – a special time for the family, but with everything closed it’s not much fun for the tourist.

So here’s a guide on Ramadan in Tangier, how to negotiate the challenges and how to make the most of this time. And maybe most important of all, where to find somewhere open to eat.

What is Ramadan?

Ramadan is a month in the Islamic calendar of reflection and abstinence in the spirit of appreciating the less fortunate. In aid of this, it is a month of fasting during daylight hours including no water, and abstaining from alcohol, smoking and sex. Everyone is up early to eat before daylight. Business hours are shortened and Morocco has its one month of the year which is not on summer time hours. 

When is Ramadan 2026?

Ramadan is moon based like Easter, so each year is a different date. While Easter is fixed to a date between February and April, Ramadan moves forwards by around 2 weeks every year. In 2026 it is scheduled to start from around the 18th February, and will last for a lunar month, until around the 19th March.

Why do I say an approximate date? Because the day is decided according to the crescent moon by the top Iman in each country. Apparently all our technological advancements aren’t adequate.

The precise measure of the day of the crescent moon, and the start and end of Ramadan is decided only on the day. Morocco usually starts and finishes a day different to the rest of the Islamic world, something maybe understood only by Allah himself.

What happens in Ramadan in Tangier?

Each country expresses Islam and responds to Ramadan differently. On the whole Morocco is relaxed about Islam – except for Ramadan. Their population is officially stated to be 99% Muslim – although going by the number of people (especially young people) who don’t pay it much attention and who don’t wish to fast during Ramadan, the real number may be quite different. Nevertheless, it is officially illegal for an adult Moroccan to eat in public during daylight hours and they can be arrested, unless exempt – such as for health reasons, if travelling, or if a woman is pregnant or menstruating. Children start fasting from puberty, so roughly around the age of 12 to 15, with children starting to practice from the age of 5. The social pressure to fast is very strong.

In Tangier all bars are closed for the month, and for the few days at the end, which is the Eid celebration of the end of Ramadan. Almost all restaurants are closed in the day time. The streets are quiet for most of the day. For the two hours before sunset, the streets go crazy with everyone rushing to do their food shopping before f’tour.

Rue d’Italie 15 minutes before F’tour

Then, in the space of 15 minutes, even the busiest streets go from absolute chaos to empty. It’s both eerie and kind of magical at the same time.

Rue d’Italie - at f’tour and just 15 minutes after the above photo, same day, same spot. The blue 3 wheel truck hasn’t moved.

Be aware that there will be almost no taxis from this time for a couple of hours. Nothing happens. A population of hungry people is breaking their fast.

Options in Tangier – How to Manage as a Tourist

Petit Socco - ‘small square’ - in the middle of the medina (old city)

During the day time, the best place to find cafes and restaurants is in the medina (the old walled city). Gran Café Central in the Petit Socco is always open. But be warned – as one of the few options, it is typically very crowded for this period. Right next to it is Café Tingis. Besides drinks, they will offer a tagine at this time. They also will not refuse to serve Arabic people which is common in most other places open. There is another little café on the other side of Café Central facing down the street which is also open and also serves everybody.

Cafe Tingis in Petit Socco which serves everyone, including Moroccans. The awning of Gran Cafe Central is on the right.

Big hotels will also usually have their restaurants open for tourists – along the Corniche (road that fronts the sea), and places like Hotel Rembrandt, El Minzah, and the Hilton are likely candidates.

There are a few other places usually open every Ramadan:

Abou Tayssir – or The Syrian. This is a good one all year round and one of my favourites. In Rue d’Italie, the steep street next to the medina and opposite Cine Alcazar.

Abo Tayssir, The Syrian and my first recommendation year round, and open during Ramadan in the day time. They have now expanded into the shop next door on the right (shuttered in the photo). Cafe Colon is to its left, with Cine Alcazar opposite.

Comedia (especially the one in the arcade over the water, and the ones next to it) and Downtown cafes on the Boulevard – past Hotel Rembrandt (their restaurant may also be open) on the way to the post office. It changes each year, but these ones are generally open every year serving food.

Anji Chinese Restaurant – on the Corniche opposite Marina Hotel should be open. An excellent restaurant and a favourite one of mine all year round. There is also a Chinese restaurant on the beach in Malabata run by the same people.

Anji Chinese restaurant on the Corniche - another year round favourite of mine. It also serves beer.

La Cocina – is on the Corniche near the ferry terminal, and usually open and serving food and alcohol.

Ba sidi – On Rue d’Italie, and likely to be open.

MacDonalds – Guaranteed to be open. There is one near Hotel Rembrandt, and another on the Corniche near the train station. There is also a KFC next to this second one.

Villa Mokhtar – Rather nice with rooftop views for cocktails, off Rue d’Italie on the small street just before the one to Bab Kasbah (the Kasbah gate) at the top of the hill.

There will also be several places in the medina which are likely to be open, such as The Morocco Club.

Mesana isn’t open in day time hours, but it serves alcohol in the evenings through Ramadan. It’s a Spanish Basque restaurant on the Corniche just past train station.

Buying Alcohol

Many cities in Morocco are completely dry during Ramadan, with zero alcohol options. However, Tangier usually does have a couple. The standard one where you can stock up on alcohol during the day hours is Casa Pepe, between MacDonalds and Hotel Rembrandt. Note that it is sharp with its closing time and may even close early so the owners can get home in time for f’tour. (Socco Alto supermarket bottle shop is never open.)

Between MacDonalds and Hotel Rembrandt on the Boulevard, these guys sell alcohol in the day, also a delicatessen. Make sure you take your passport, even if you are blonde, blue eyed, and don’t speak a word of Arabic.

Be aware that in Morocco you need to keep any bottles discrete and hidden in public at all times, even when they are empty. During Ramadan this may even turn to hostility. If you have an Arabic name or look, you will not be served. Even if you don’t you will need to produce your passport in confirmation of this – even if you are blonde and blue-eyed. At these times it’s handy to have a friend with a non-Arabic passport.

Note that for Eid, even these outlets will be closed. For these few days the whole of Morocco is dry. If you want access, stock up beforehand.

What is F’tour?

F’tour or Iftar is breakfast, and means exactly the same as the English – breaking a fast. If you get invited for breakfast, it will be for sunset. But here are some ways that can make Ramadan more fun, and to have a taste of the experience.

Café - F’tour

Many cafes have a f’tour menu, and open for it in time for sunset. The fancier cafes will have a fancier menu, but my suggestion would be to go to one of the cheap local cafes where the Moroccans go. I have been to one down on the Corniche near to the ferry terminal, between the Terminus wine bar and the small roundabout near it down from the fish markets. It is one of several which is ready to go at sunset.

The tables will be set out with 3 dates, an egg, and l’ben to drink (a sour yoghurt drink, or buttermilk). You can sit and wait with the others there for the prayer call, and break your fast with them. The meal will then follow – you order yours beforehand so it is ready for you.

The fast is broken with a sour yoghurt drink (L’ben) after nothing to drink all day - a drink with energy, dates - a quick sweet fix to get the blood sugar going again, and a boiled egg. Then the meal.

Picnic - F’tour

Another option is to buy your foods or takeaways before sunset and take them with you to one of the parks or the beach. Wait until the prayer call and then enjoy the picnic.

Non-food Cafes - F’tour

When not cooking at home I take food or buy takeaways to a favourite café. I often arrange a gathering of friends. Ask at the café – it will be closed through the day, but they usually set up in the late afternoon so that they are ready to open after f’tour/iftar. They are likely to be happy to let you sit at the tables to eat as long as you then buy a drink when they finish their f’tour.

My favourite spot for this is Café Colon on Rue d’Italie, opposite Cine Alcazar where I could watch the street empty out before sunset, enjoy eating, and then chill over a mint tea or coffee afterwards, and into the evening. Sometimes we arranged for food from Abou Tayssier next door, the brilliant Syrian restaurant. After this we just sit and chat, or sometimes go to practice playing pool.

Chebakia - Ramadan sweet in Morocco, knotted pastries doused in syrup. You can also try Bsaha, a very densely packed variety of ground nuts which is eaten with a spoon.

 Surviving the Days

It may be worth carrying some snacks with you, especially if you leave the medina. Fruit shops and supermarkets will be open through the day – stock up when you see one, and maybe keep a supply of nuts on you. And be more on the watch out than usual. After 2pm with dropped blood sugar levels and withdrawal from cigarettes hitting hard, judgement is off and patience is short. People get cranky, arguments are common, and traffic becomes far less aware than the usual standards, which are surprisingly high (the rest of the year). Accidents are more frequent - don’t be part of one.

Join the Fast

And of course, you can choose to join in with the fasting. If you do this, don’t presume for a normal day, but take it easy. Moroccans have a meal before daylight, and spend a lot of the day sleeping. Everything will be open in the evenings. After the streets go quiet for a couple of hours, they then fill up with festive Moroccans who are re-energised and out with their friends, especially after the first days of Ramadan which are more likely to be spent with family.

Have you found something worth a day time trip? Or had a Ramadan experience to share?

Ramadan Kareem - if you do find yourself in Morocco during Ramadan, make the most of it and enjoy your time..

F’tour or iftar - dates, eggs and juice or l’ben, plus chebakia and other Moroccan nut biscuits.